How do watch collectors view watch straps?

A year ago (already!), the watchmaking world marveled at Patrick Getreide's incredible collection. Dubbed OAK – One of a Kind, this collection brings together no fewer than 600 watches, each as remarkable as it is sensational, for a total estimated at nearly 300 million euros by experts. While the models that make up this collection have of course been extensively detailed and commented on, it seems that no one has noticed that the leather watch straps that equip these timepieces all belong to the same model. In fact, it seems obvious to wonder how watch collectors view watch straps?

Watch collectors, a diverse community

But before answering this question, it is first necessary to delve a little deeper into the psychology of the collector. Because if we simply define it as "someone who likes to bring together objects with certain points in common because of their value, whether scientific, artistic, aesthetic, documentary, emotional or venal", we would reduce the collector to a simple possessor. However, when it comes to watch collectors, nothing could be less true. Because well beyond this materialistic definition, the collector is above all the holder of knowledge as in-depth as it is precise on the subject that animates him: he is an enthusiast. Indeed, watch collectors are inexhaustible of details and anecdotes about brands, their flagship models, the stories of those who wear them... And nothing stimulates them more than the prospect of learning more: the collector is therefore above all a researcher.

But once again, we would only be scratching the surface if we stopped there. Therefore, we can divide watch collectors into three categories:

• Purists, those who only have eyes for authentic models with strong historical or heritage value.
• Aesthetes, those for whom aesthetic qualities, originality and design take precedence above all else.
• Speculators, those who pay particular attention to the evolution of the value of their collection. They are very aware of market trends.

Of course, no one belongs exclusively to any one category. Each collector is composed of varying proportions of each of these categories, and these proportions evolve over time, thus making our researcher a traveler.

Psychology of the watch enthusiast

Nevertheless, while this breakdown sheds new light on our approach to watch collectors in general and watches in particular, it does not rule out the accumulative dimension of the initial definition. But, knowing that in the world of classic cars, the possession of a particular car is enough to make its owner a collector, it may be relevant to look further into what the collector is looking for in his quest for collecting.

Behavioral scientists first teach us that collected objects are attachment figures. The object becomes, so to speak, alive and beloved, sending back a positive image to its owner, hence the desire to always acquire more. To this end, and this is quite common in both the watchmaking and automobile worlds, it is not uncommon for the collector to part with several items in order to finance the next one. And it is during this journey that the collector finds himself confronted above all with himself.

Indeed, all the knowledge he has accumulated over time will be of no help to him if he has not asked himself the question of what he really likes in one watchmaker's shop rather than another, or of the meaning he can (must!) give to his collection. Without which, his future acquisitions will only provide him with the expected satisfaction in a very ephemeral way... And it is only after having found the answers to these questions that the accumulative process will tend to rationalize itself. In fact, only the collector who manages to no longer hold more than a single copy of the objects that nevertheless fascinate him can claim to have reached the end of his collection and therefore, of a part of himself. Didn't Gandhi say that "the greatest traveler is the one who has managed to go around himself"?

Know yourself to choose the right watch strap

As for Patrick Getreide, it seems that he is evolving well beyond these

considerations. His collection contains models belonging not only to such prestigious brands as Patek Philippe, Rolex, FP Journe, Audemars Piguet but also in incredible proportions: 600 units for an equally impressive amount! And yet, it seems that only one model of men's leather watch strap was found. Of course, only this one could justify this choice... But this constant in the middle of such an eclectic collection seems to indicate that it is quite possible to choose a watch strap well .

To do this, several axes must be considered:

The first is to consider what you intend to use it for. Obviously, a calfskin watch strap will be more appropriate for a formal evening than a toolwatch in the woods...

The second appeals directly to your aesthetic side and the stylistic direction you want to give to your timepiece. Indeed, the same watch with a steel or leather strap does not reflect the same intentions. Color also plays a key role so that the watch and strap form a coherent, seamless whole.

The third is based on common sense rules, such as respecting the dimensions of the lug width, the circumference of your wrist or the thickness of the bracelet so that it does not exceed that of the lugs, not to mention the drop, that is to say the narrowing of the bracelet towards the buckle... In order to help you choose the best size for your bracelet, Maison Fèvre invites you to discover the following article What size watch strap should you choose?

In any case, it is obvious that the choice of manufacturer is a determining element in choosing a watch strap. Among these, Maison Fèvre offers a sufficiently wide choice to provide several answers to the combination of these different axes. Its expertise and savoir-faire extend to the most delicate leathers, gathered in the exotic leather collection, where the crocodile, lizard,and  ostrich leather watch strap models are cut, assembled and sewn by hand by craftsmen with patiently mastered know-how.

Choosing the right watch strap therefore depends as much on your ability to determine what you want as on the manufacturer to whom you entrust its creation... In short, it is a step in its own right in your journey as a collector.

Luxury watches for women, the undiscovered passion

And what about women? Indeed, since this article was based on Patrick Getreide's incredible collection, it naturally developed from the perspective of collectors alone. However, one might wonder if this character trait is shared by women and if the same enthusiasm exists for luxury watches for women.

Let's be clear right away that this is overwhelmingly a male activity. However, the question still excites some of these gentlemen. Jacques Attali, economist, former advisor to François Mitterrand and incidentally hourglass collector, develops the theory that watch collectors want to create something to pass on to their descendants. Also, because they give life, women would not have this instinct. Arnaud Tellier, former auctioneer, later watchmaker and director of the Patek Philippe Museum, responds by specifying that he only knows two female watch collectors... and neither has children.

But we would be wrong to stop there when it comes to luxury watches for women. Indeed, these are too often reduced to their dimension as jewelry, and too rarely valued for their horological value.

And yet, it was with a basin-shaped Breguet watch with a mother-of-pearl dial that the watches set out to conquer all wrists... starting with that of Napoleon's youngest sister, Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples!

So, let's take the case of the double-wrap watch strap, now emblematic of women's wrists. To learn more about the origins of this well-known watch strap, Maison Fèvre invites you to discover its article The origins of the double-wrap watch strap. To limit its origins to fighter pilots alone would be to ignore the pioneers of aviation. How can we not mention the incredible story of Amelia Earhart, the first woman to cross the Atlantic at the controls of an airplane in 1932, who disappeared in 1937 during her attempt to circumnavigate the world via the East and her Longines chronograph?

Inseparable from the heroine and her exploits, this watch has become the symbol of the Ninety-Nines group, an association of female pilots from 35 countries and bringing together more than 5,500 members, co-founded by Amelia Earhart. In 2010, Amelia Earhart's Longines chronograph was loaned to Shannon Walker, astronaut and member of the group, who would wear it for her flight to the International Space Station (ISS). Returned safely to Earth, the Longines chronograph now enjoys a peaceful retirement in a display case at the Ninety-Nines Museum in Oklahoma City.

Pop culture is also not far behind when it comes to luxury watches for women. While the Rolex Submariner is inseparable from the character of James Bond, Pussy Galore's Rolex GMT-Master in Goldfinger is no less iconic!

It's a shame that the reticence towards women's watches overshadows such stories and doesn't generate more attention in this area... For how much longer?

Cyril LEROY
Watchmaking editor at Maison Fèvre
Enlightened amateur & passionate collector