Men's Automotive Watches: Fast and Furious!

While the former measure time, the latter constantly challenge it... Despite everything, these two mechanical entities are made for each other. And although thousandths rhymes with speed, men's automotive watches are not only chronographs...

In every watch lies the soul of a men's automotive watch

It's hard to say when the meeting between men's automotive watches and cars actually took place... But the fact remains that they have been inseparable ever since! And while there are, of course, a plethora of stories to tell about this romance, I'd like to mention today that of Sir Malcolm Campbell. Born in 1885 in the suburbs of London, he served as a pilot in the RAF during the First World War. As soon as he returned home, he had only one thing on his mind: setting land speed records.

The first took place on a strip of sand in Wales in 1924 at a speed of 235.22 km/h. Beaten two years later by his long-time rival, Henri Segrave, Captain Malcolm Campbell then secured the services of engineer Leo Villa to design the car that would allow him to regain his title. He briefly succeeded in February 1927 at the wheel of his "Blue Bird", before being overtaken again by Henri Segrave only a month later, this time in Florida. After another back-and-forth in 1929, Malcolm Campbell definitively crushed the competition in 1931 at the wheel of his "Blue Bird II" with a speed record of 396.04 km/h, on this same American beach. This also earned him a Knighthood from King George V. Sir Malcolm Campbell would push his own record even further, reaching 300 miles per hour (482 km/h) in 1935. Notably, unlike his competitors, he died of natural causes at the age of 63.

What I forgot to mention is that Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, approached him on the sidelines of his first record on the Florida sands to take one of his watches aboard his Blue Bird II for a fee. Malcolm Campbell took the watch but refused the money.

And so a simple gentleman 's watch quietly entered the pantheon of men's automotive watches.

A small detail that will certainly catch the attention of lovers of men's automotive watches: the famous strip of sand in Florida, the scene of the confrontation and then the supremacy of Captain Sir Malcolm Campbell is called... Daytona Beach .

The 24 Hours of Le Mans: much more than a race

For those who still doubt it: it was indeed in homage to Sir Malcolm Campbell's speed records that the Rolex chronograph for racing drivers would bear the name Daytona thirty years later. Easily identifiable with its contrasting sub-dials, it was also the first to offer this configuration with a white dial and black totalizers, which would be nicknamed "Panda."

However, it was on the Sarthe track of the 24 Hours of Le Mans that it would become legendary. Indeed, the Daytona would shine on the wrist of Paul Newman during the 1979 edition. Far from being a figurehead, the actor would finish second in the 24 Hours of Le Mans that year. The watch that accompanied him during this race would become the most expensive in the world when it was auctioned in 2017, thus achieving iconic status, even a watchmaking holy grail.

Another detail that enthusiasts will surely appreciate: Paul Newman wore his Cosmograph Daytona on a Bund strap. Remember the strap issued to pilots in the Federal Republic of Germany's army during World War II? For those who missed it, it features a protective leather plate placed between the watch and the wrist, otherwise known as an "American plate."

This military watch strap had to fulfill 4 functions:

• Insulate watches from sweat and moisture to increase their lifespan.
• Reduce vibration transmission by holding the watch firmly on your wrist.
• Limit injuries in the event of a violent impact.
• Protect the soldier from steel burns if he becomes trapped in the flames.

A specification which, you will agree, applies quite well to motor sports...

But, like the double-wrap watch strap, it is far from remaining the preserve of pilots or men.

Indeed, model Nina Rindt, wife of Formula 1 driver Jochen Rindt, wore her Universal Genève chronograph on a Bund strap.

And if the 24 Hours of Le Mans is above all the most famous automobile endurance race in the world, it is also inseparable from what is certainly the second most famous watch in the world.

The Rally watch strap, inspired by the upholstery of racing cars

I'm of course talking about the Heuer Monaco chronograph that Steve McQueen wore in his 1971 film Le Mans. Over time, the film became a cult classic, bringing with it this watch with its unique design. Imagine: the first square automatic chronograph! And as if that weren't enough, it's also mounted on an equally unusual strap. Indeed, the Rally watch strap is distinguished by its multiple perforations. These are directly inspired by the upholstery of endurance racing cars, which are also largely perforated for heat dissipation.

Be careful, however, not to confuse the Rally watch strap with the Gainsbourg strap. Mostly made of steel, it is distinguished above all by its much fewer but much larger perforations. They echo the perforations designed to lighten certain mechanical parts of racing cars.

For its part, Maison Fèvre once again deploys all its expertise to offer a successful version of this perforated leather watch strap for men, in strict compliance with the leatherworking tradition to which it is heir. The finest parts of its cowhide leathers are rigorously sorted before being delicately cut and assembled.

Available in four colors with tinted edges and tone-on-tone stitching, the Maison Fèvre Rally watch strap will adapt in 15 seconds thanks to the flash pumps with which the vintage sports watch strap is equipped to adapt to any watch, chronograph or not.

Motorsport watches

But make no mistake: it is chronographs that best embody the spirit of motorsport watches.

Many of them directly refer to legendary races, such as the Heuer Carrera chronograph, echoing the prestigious Mexican Carrera Panamericana race, or Chopard and the Italian Mille Miglia race.

Of course, the drivers themselves, true modern-day charioteers, have largely contributed to the success and popularity of motorsport watches. Among the most popular are François Cevert, nicknamed the "French James Dean" and his Seiko 6139 with a blue dial, or Mario Andretti and his Yéma Rallygraf with a red-striped dial. Closer to home, it seems that it is Richard Mille and his composite watches that seem to be the favorites of our contemporary drivers.

But beyond these obvious facts, some watchmakers do not hesitate to think outside the box to offer motorsport watches that do more than evoke a glorious past: they embody it!

Thus, the young brand Atelier Jalaper offers a first watch whose dial is carved from the hood of an Aston Martin DB5, while the second comes from the engine hood of a Lamborghini Miura P400 S.

Ultimately, any watch equipped with a Maison Fèvre motorsport watch strap is capable of accompanying you on the asphalt, but with even more style if you complement it with perforated leather gloves.

Cyril LEROY
Watchmaking editor at Maison Fèvre
Enlightened amateur & passionate collector