What is a men's dive watch?

Men's dive watches, not just about depth... While all the big names in watchmaking have at least one diving watch in their range, some brands have even made it their specialty... To the point of not offering any other models! But what's so special about them?

The characteristics of a men's dive watch

Being waterproof is not enough to be a men's dive watch. In short, we could say that these are simply the elite of waterproof watches. In fact, men's dive watches meet specific characteristics, gathered since 1982 within the ISO 6425 standard, updated for the first time in 1996 and a second time in 2018.

The main points are as follows:

• Be waterproof to 100 meters.
• Resistant to salt water for 24 hours at a temperature between 18°C ​​and 25°C.
• Withstand a second immersion at a depth of 30 cm for 50 hours.
• Have a time control system (unidirectional rotating bezel graduated up to 30 minutes minimum).
• Have increased readability (for example with luminescent treatment of the indexes and hands).
• Prove its operation at any time (for example with a second hand).

Now, many watches can claim this. Some brands even go further in their requirements, like the French brand Ralf Tech, whose men's dive watches equip nearly 80 special forces units around the world.

What is the history of scuba diving?

It would be reductive to think that diving watches were born solely from the initiative of deep-sea explorers. Indeed, among the enemies that watches face, water occupies a special place. Not content with fogging up the glass, it seeps in everywhere, creates rust and irreparably damages the mechanisms… In fact, water resistance was a primary objective for all manufacturers. Nevertheless, the rise of diving watches is indeed associated with that of the history of scuba diving … Or at least in its mechanical version, because freediving has been around since the beginning of time and men have been diving to collect shells and other treasures. Although the first functional watertight diving suit dates back to 1882, it was the invention of the automatic regulator in 1926 by Maurice Fernez and Yves Le Pieur, perfected in 1943 by Emile Gagnan and Jacques-Yves Cousteau, that gave birth to scuba diving as we know it today. Thus, the history of scuba diving counts among its tutelary figures characters as varied as William Walker, the diver who saved Winchester Cathedral from collapse by rebuilding its underwater foundations between 1906 and 1911, the friendly commander in the red cap or the secret agent Bob Maloubier, notably known for having actively contributed to the creation of the first combat swimmer units... But the history of scuba diving does not end with these heroes, and will only find its end once the mysteries of the abyss have been plumbed.

Vintage dive watches

In the race for waterproofness, it was the company Alcide Droz & Fils that struck the first notes in 1883 with a waterproof pocket watch , the Imperméable. It wasn't until 1919 that Charles Depollier really got the ball rolling with the Waltham Depollier "Thermo" Waterproof Watch. In 1927, Rolex followed suit by presenting its first waterproof watch case, the Oyster, which would equip swimmer Mercedes Gleitze for her Channel crossing that same year. Then Omega followed up by marketing the Omega Marine in 1932: after a series of tests conducted by the Neuchâtel Watchmaking Laboratory in May 1937, the watch was certified capable of withstanding a pressure of 13.5 atmospheres, or 135 meters, without any water intake... And the waltz has continued ever since, reaching a depth of 10,916 meters in the Mariana Trench in 1960.

But how can we explain the current fascination for vintage dive watches ?

The golden age of these watches being strongly correlated with the explosion in the 1950s and 1960s of seaside resorts and nautical activities, most vintage dive watches are either imbued with strong stylistic elements of these years, making them all the sexier, or very exclusive because only distributed in small quantities in specialized stores, like the Aquastar brand.

But rarity and design don't explain everything.

Cinema also has its share of responsibility, and more specifically its most famous spy: Bond, James Bond. Who would have thought that a simple scene from "Doctor No," the first film in the franchise released in 1962, in which the British agent was played by Sean Connery, would have such an impact? Indeed, we see the actor, in an impeccable tuxedo, nonchalantly consulting his Rolex Submariner... Elegance at the service of adventure and vice versa, versatility at its peak: thus was born the legend.

And if Ian Flemming's hero wore his watch on a nylon strap (which you will have noticed was too narrow compared to the lug width of his watch) , diving watches were generally fitted with a vulcanized rubber strap, also called "Tropic". Unlike the steel strap that equipped the first divers, it adapted more easily, allowing it to easily go over a wetsuit then under a shirt and vice versa.

Thanks to its expertise and know-how, Maison Fèvre® offers two straps to adorn your vintage dive watch straps:

• The first is in line with the brand's artisanal heritage with a waterproof smooth calfskin strap. Made from hand-assembled leather, this Maison Fèvre waterproof leather watch strap will elegantly accompany you on all your outings, whether aquatic or not.

• More modern and resolutely designed for adventure, the second is adorned with a highly water-resistant waterproof canvas. And for added comfort, this waterproof watch strap is lined with calfskin, which is also waterproof.

Where are the most beautiful diving spots?

Now properly attached, and after having taken care to have the water resistance of your favorite diver checked by a watchmaker, it is high time to take the plunge.

With its 5,500 km of coastline, metropolitan France offers multiple possibilities. And among the most beautiful diving spots , the Mediterranean comes first. History buffs will enjoy swimming in the footsteps of the six Italian divers who left their submarine lurking in front of the entrance to the port of Alexandria in December 1941. After slipping through the British defenses, the divers deposited their explosive charges under three targets: an oil tanker and two battleships, flagships of the Royal Navy in the Mediterranean. The explosion of the two thirty-two thousand ton battleships is one of the greatest victories of the Italian Navy during the last world conflict.

Protected by military secrecy, the existence of their watches, the Radiomir, was only made public when the Panerai brand was acquired by the Richemont group in 1997.

When it comes to visual delights, the most beautiful diving spots are undoubtedly found on the Great Barrier Reef side of Australia. However, it seems that the Cenotes of Yucatan in Mexico are no exception.

But whether exotic or not, the most beautiful diving spots are threatened by both climate change and mass tourism. And it's not just up to diving watch wearers to take action to preserve them.

Cyril LEROY
Watchmaking editor at Maison Fèvre
Enlightened amateur & passionate collector