Buying Guide for a Pre-Owned Vintage Watch

Vintage is definitely the center of attention, and the watchmaking world would agree! But you don't buy a vintage watch like you do on Amazon. Although, the neo-vintage surge of recent years has made it possible to combine business with pleasure, because pre-owned vintage watches arouse as much fear as passion... That's why a buying guide for pre-owned vintage watches seems ideal!

Vintage watches, a jungle to explore

Before going any further, it seems important, if not essential, to (re)specify what the term “vintage” defines:

• Relatively speaking, it's something that's thirty years old or more. In this sense, the band Nirvana is now eligible for this qualification. The series Friends will have to wait until September 22 of this year to claim it... (yes, seen like that, many of us will be feeling a little old... well, you get my drift).
• Absolutely, and more particularly in watchmaking, it concerns watches dating from before 1985, the date from which nothing would be the same again, Computer Aided Design (CAD) irremediably reshuffling the cards of watch design, or at least, the way of approaching it.

In any case, this term can only be attributed to an antique object whose aesthetic characteristics allow it to remain attractive in an era where aesthetic standards are different from those of the time in which it was designed. If a vintage watch or any other object cannot escape its era, the term "obsolete" will then apply. Of course, the context in which it evolves has an influence on the impression it gives...

Once this notion is established, it is obvious that you are eager to go treasure hunting, and vintage watches in particular. While flea markets and other second-hand shops can obviously be providers of nuggets and bargains of all kinds, the novice will always be afraid of taking a breath for a lantern... Indeed, the sellers there are generally not specialists. This is why I advise you to turn to specialized fairs. Those organized by the French Association of Antique Watch Lovers (AFAHA) are obviously the ones to favor, knowing that the largest has been taking place for a little over 20 years at the Halle aux grains de Mer, a charming town in Loir-et-Cher located between Blois and Orléans. These events bring together as many enlightened amateurs as passionate collectors and all will be eager to answer all the questions you may have about the vintage watches offered for sale.

Choosing a vintage watch for men: expertise serving the eye, and vice versa

However, it can be helpful to follow a few simple guidelines to avoid some major disappointments. Not that some sellers are dishonest, but mainly to ensure that you don't get carried away by emotion and end up regretting your purchase in less time than it took to make it...

First of all, before even crossing the threshold of one of these events or even a boutique, remember what the young artisan watchmaker Théo Auffret said about collectors: "At first, they want to shine with a watch that everyone knows. Then, with a watch that no one knows. And finally, with a watch that no one knows... and that no one can have." The idea behind this quote is to remind you that the law of supply and demand has the first consequence of revising upwards the price of the icons that everyone talks about... Before anything else, it is therefore essential to set yourself a budget and especially a limit for the purchase of a vintage watch for men. When it comes to budget, it is customary to say that we buy in stages: would you pay the full price for a bottle of wine before having learned to appreciate wine or to taste it? The same goes for watches: buy watches for €100, €200 before buying vintage men's watches for €1,000, €2,000... and so on.

Next, regardless of the popularity of the watch you just found on a stand or that you see in a window, you should ask yourself the following questions: Does it work?

• If so, ask the seller if it keeps time and if he knows when it was last serviced...
• If not, is it complete or are any parts missing?

This last point will not only have an impact on the purchase price, but also on the resources in money, time, etc., that you will have to mobilize to get this sleeping beauty that you want so much working again... without any guarantee of being able to achieve it!

Beyond the purely mechanical aspect, and although there is no universal reference, you can also classify your findings according to one of the following five categories:

• NOS: New Old Stock, which as its name suggests, means “like new”.
• Excellent: Which has already been worn but which shows superficial signs of use (micro-scratches).
• Very good: Showing some signs of wear but remaining in satisfactory condition.
• Good or fair: Signs of wear requiring more or less extensive restoration.
• Poor: condition such that restoration is unlikely or impossible... also known as "for parts".

If I had to remember just one thing from my grandfather, a modest rally driver in his spare time who has already been mentioned here, it is that before you commit to any mechanical, sports or watchmaking business, it is essential to find the person who will carry out routine maintenance, intervene in the event of breakdowns and advise you on your restoration projects.

In this case, don't hesitate to value time by asking the seller if he can put the vintage men's watch you want aside so that you can seek the advice of your watchmaker.

With time, experience will come, and it will become easier for you to take the plunge. But don't be too hard on yourself and give yourself the chance to make mistakes... if only for the pleasure of starting again!

Vintage watches for women, a forgotten continent

While women's watches are still too often treated lightly (by which we mean a certain frivolity), the wonderful world of vintage allows them to take their revenge twice over. Here are some explanations:

On the one hand, it is quite common to hear that there is no market for vintage watches for women, in other words, their trade would be quite complicated due to too low demand... Never mind! Take advantage, ladies, to acquire models of vintage women's watches from major brands, but at low prices! Your companions will only be more jealous... Let yourself be seduced by our watch straps for women.

On the other hand, things are so done that the diameter of men's watches of yesterday is that of women's watches of today. Indeed, while the men's watches that we currently find in stores mostly have a diameter oscillating between 39 and 44mm, their ancestors were rather between 33 and 38mm. This reduced size lends itself quite well to the generally smaller wrists of women, it further broadens the range of possibilities for watches intended for women. In fact, the men's watches of yesterday make perfect vintage watches for women .

Beyond these gender considerations, it is certain, for obvious reasons of hygiene, that you would not wear your new watch with the strap of its previous owner. However, it is quite possible that you would like to pay homage to it by giving it a strap that matches the original one. To do this, you can obviously go in search of vintage advertisements, or refer to the table below, which lists certain "signature" characteristics of vintage watch straps according to the periods:

• 1900s-1910s: Archives reveal colorful leathers, such as pinks, very light greens, and lemon yellows. Discover our vintage leather straps for men available in a wide range of colors.
  
  
• 1920s-1930s (Shaped Watches / Art Deco) : Burgundy was the fashionable color. The pin buckle was sewn to the strap. The stitching generally went all the way around the strap. The tip was not ogive but rounded. The sides were clean-cut and uncoated. Women's watches had cord-style straps. Exotic skins (men's lizard watch straps and women's lizard watch straps, shagreen, ostrich, crocodile flank, or snake) were also very popular in small leather goods.
  
  
• 1940s: Riveting on straps for pilot's watches, rally watch straps.
  
  
• 1950s-1960s: Popularization of steel bracelets and rolled sides on leather bracelets. All our men's leather watch straps.
  
  
• 1970s: Exuberance is in vogue: a return to bright colors. The width of the straps extends beyond the lugs via a shoulder. Inserts are used to modify the profile and thickness of the straps. The NATO strap appears. Discover our leather Nato watch straps.

Verified vintage watch platforms: the new El Dorado?

And the Internet, you might ask? It is indeed impossible not to address this aspect of the vintage watch economy, as it has become so important, not to say predominant. However, this marvel of the modern era eliminates distances proportionally to the increase in mistrust... This is certainly the reason why several platforms, such as Chronext (the first of its kind) or Pure-Vintage, are doubling their online presence with physical stores. In any case, verified vintage watch platforms strive to offer you the maximum guarantees possible. Generally, these sites examine each watch as part of a quality control coupled with an authentication process and can, if necessary, carry out revisions or minor repairs. Beyond these sites with their somewhat too well-oiled mechanics, some of you will undoubtedly prefer the intimacy offered by Tom Bréant's verified vintage watch platforms: Montre & Vintage. This enthusiast puts all his expertise at your disposal to offer you quality watches adapted to all budgets, including if possible a biography, a history, and he can also strive to carry out a tailor-made search for the watch of your dreams.

Personally, my favorite verified vintage watch platform is that of Belgian collector Pascal Drion: Vintage Today Watches. It's the only platform where I find this flea market and watch fair atmosphere. Pascal is very transparent about the watches he offers and will communicate directly with you via WhatsApp to share photos, videos, voice messages... in short, everything you need to please yourself with complete confidence.

I would particularly like to thank Mr. Mathieu Gounon, head of Rivière-Tannage at the Tannerie d'Annonay and leather historian, for answering my questions and sharing the results of his research with me.

Cyril LEROY
Watchmaking editor at Maison Fèvre
Enlightened amateur & passionate collector