Like an ever-renewing spring, the double-wrap watch strap never tires of blooming on the wrists of these ladies. But far from the world of haute couture and fashion, this bracelet originates from a much less glamorous environment...

What is a double-wrap watch strap?

Before going any further, it is important to define what a double-wrap watch strap is. Unlike a classic bracelet where the two parts of the bracelet join immediately, the double-wrap watch strap is characterized by the fact that the tip makes a turn around the wrist before finding the buckle, thus dressing the wrist even more. For several years now, several brands, like Chanel, Hermès or Jaeger-LeCoultre to name but a few, have permanently offered a double-wrap watch strap in their catalog for its sophisticated and elegant side. We have notably seen this type of watch on the wrist of Madonna or Inès de la Fressange… But it has not always been like this!

The masculine origins of the women's double-wrap strap

Pants weren't the only war prize women made from men's wardrobes! Indeed, the double-wrap strap for women also comes from the men's wardrobe. And not just any men: that of fighter pilots. Here's an explanation.

The wristwatch quickly, if not immediately, became an indispensable tool for pilots, especially during the two world wars. It allowed them, among other things, to follow a flight plan or calculate their speed... For the moment, no connection with the women's double-wrap strap you might say. But that's without taking into account the conditions in which pilots used their watches. The comfort of a fighter jet cockpit in the 1940s is the opposite of that of a contemporary airliner: no pressurization, and even less heating... As a result, our valiant heroes wrapped themselves in thick suits, themselves covered with a padded jacket. Needless to say, it was then out of place for a pilot to be able to roll up his sleeve to uncover his watch... especially when wearing gloves! Also, pilots got into the habit of wearing their watches over their jackets, hence the longer strap than normal. Also, to continue wearing their watch once on the ground, pilots were therefore obliged to make an extra turn on their wrist. Before being the elegant women's double-wrap strap that we know, this one therefore had above all a utilitarian function.

The women's double-wrap leather strap: from cockpits to catwalks

double strap watch bracelet story

And then the war ended: the thick leather straps were removed from the welded handles of the cases to which they were riveted, the watches disappeared under the shirts, and we moved on to something else... until 1998.

It was indeed during his first fashion show for Hermès that stylist Martin Margiela, one of the most secretive designers in the fashion world, created the women's double-wrap leather strap.

And nearly a quarter of a century later, we can't help but acknowledge its success, as this bracelet has become so iconic. Timeless and distinguished, it adapts to all styles.

It is in this spirit that Maison Fèvre offers its version of the women's double-wrap leather strap. Cut and assembled by hand by our craftsmen in a rigorously selected smooth cowhide leather, it is available in a wide variety of colors. Equipped with quick pumps, the Maison Fèvre® women's double-wrap leather bracelet is easily interchangeable, allowing it to be associated with your leather goods of the day, such as your belt, your bag or your pumps...

The history of watches is written on the wrists of those who wear them

There remains one category of heroes for whom the double-wrap bracelet continues to be relevant: astronauts. Indeed, not content with having pushed back the boundaries of space exploration, they have also marked the history of watches by undergoing the most drastic tests possible in order to select the timepiece that would accompany them on their perilous missions. But unlike fighter pilots, it is during spacewalks that the spacesuit is required. Also, the history of watches will remember that Buzz Aldrin wore his professional Omega Speedmaster with the double strap around his wrist on July 20, 1969, aboard the capsule that took them to the Moon, and that this same watch was found over his spacesuit the next day, during a famous:

One small step for a man, one giant leap for mankind.

 

the history of men's watches

In any case, judging by certain publications, it would seem that after having won the hearts of women, the double-wrap bracelet is trying to win back those of men. Like fashion or the seasons, the history of watches would therefore be nothing more than an eternal recommencement...

Cyril LEROY
Watchmaking editor at Maison Fèvre
Enlightened amateur & passionate collector

June 02, 2022 — Cyril Leroy