News from three famous luxury men's watch brands
I don't know of any field of activity that doesn't have big names as figureheads, true ambassadors of their sector. Names so prestigious that we find, in their wake, a mythology that goes far beyond the scope of their product. Thus, a Ferrari is more than a car and a Birkin is not just a simple Hermès bag... Once again, watchmaking is no exception to the rule, so much so that enthusiasts group three famous brands of luxury watches for men under the name "Holy Trinity". Let's discover together the secrets of Patek Philippe, Rolex and Audemars Piguet.
Luxury watches for men
But first, let's take a few moments to reflect on the notion of luxury. Some define it simply as "spending on the superfluous." It will certainly not have escaped your attention that luxury watches for men, particularly those of the aforementioned brands, seem to embrace a much more complex reality... Jean-Paul Sartre, for his part, considers that "luxury does not designate a quality of the object possessed, but a quality of possession." And although this reflection echoes our article on watch collectors, it does not necessarily shed any more light on the fascination exerted by luxury watches for men, nor on their cost.
For his part, Jean-Louis Dumas, president of the Hermès group from 1978 to 2006, offers a definition of luxury that is both more pragmatic and more enlightening: in fact, according to him, "luxury is what can be repaired." When it comes to luxury watches for men, this vision has the advantage of providing some keys to understanding the cost of these watches: you will easily agree that only quality can be repaired, and that this certainly has a cost that is all the higher as these brands compete in material and technical excellence in the design of their timepieces.
Patek Philippe watches: a case study
The best example of this idea of luxury and excellence is certainly embodied in Patek Philippe watches. The story begins in 1834 when the Polish Count Antoine Norbert de Patek found political asylum in Geneva. There he discovered and became passionate about precision watchmaking. In 1839, he joined forces with François Czapek, a fellow countryman of Czech origin, and together they created Patek Czapek & Cie. The technical and aesthetic qualities of their watches quickly earned them an enviable reputation. But during his participation in the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1844, Antoine Patek met the French watchmaker Jean-Adrien Philippe and his technical innovations. As his contract with François Czapek was coming to an end, he took the opportunity to make Jean-Adrien Philippe an offer. On May 15, 1845, the company was renamed Patek & Co. But since the success of its watches was mainly due to the merits of its partner, he added his name to his own to form that of the company: thus Patek Philippe was born in 1851.
After the founders' deaths, the company remained in the hands of the Philippe family until the disastrous crisis of 1929. In 1932, the Patek Philippe company was acquired by the Stern brothers, the brand's exclusive dial suppliers. To this day, it remains a family business, still in the hands of the Stern family.
Patek Philippe watches are renowned for their numerous complications, such as the perpetual calendar and the tourbillon, as well as for their impeccable finishing. Just imagine: Patek Philippe even chamfers every part of the movement! The model that best encapsulates the brand's style is undoubtedly the Calatrava. Incredible with an interchangeable lizard watch strap, this Patek Philippe watch is a model of balance and elegance. And what about the Nautilus? Proof that Patek Philippe doesn't rest on its laurels and doesn't hesitate to modernize its lines.
Rolex watches for men: from technology to legend
It is impossible to discuss the subject of luxury watches without mentioning Rolex, as this house is so essential. So much so that it is even the target of the wildest rumors... But in this case, why not talk about Rolex watches for men first, you might ask? Simply because the story only begins in 1903, when Hans Wilsdorf emigrated to London and founded his watch trading post in 1905, with the financial help of his brother-in-law. This company launched into a niche that was, to say the least, audacious for the time: popularizing wristwatches while the pocket watch still reigned supreme. While history will remember Hans Wilsdorf's visionary talents, it must be recognized that things had started relatively badly for this native of Kulmbach (Bavaria).
Indeed, orphaned by the age of 12, he had to rely on himself to survive. After the death of his parents, he left Germany in 1893 to continue his studies in Switzerland, where he completed his apprenticeship in a large watch trading house in La Chaux-de-Fonds. With such a background, it is not surprising that he did not compromise on the quality of the watches produced by Wilsdorf & Davis Cie. This is evidenced by the fact that he earned the first chronometer certificate awarded to a wristwatch in 1914…!
However, customs disputes within the British Empire, on the grounds of supporting the war effort, led him to relocate his company to Switzerland, first to Bienne in 1915, then to Geneva in 1919, where it remains to this day.
Despite these ups and downs, Rolex's success is based primarily on two major advances: water resistance and automatic winding. These innovations are the pillars of Rolex men's watches, on which almost all of the brand's models are based: Cellini, Day-date, Datejust, Daytona, Explorer, Oyster, Prince, Submariner... All are icons in their own right. And although Rolex steel bracelets are as legendary as the watches they equip, the famous Jubilee, Oyster and other President, all prove incredibly comfortable with leather straps, whether exotic leathers, such as crocodile, lizard or ostrich, or vintage leather watch straps.
But beyond their technical and aesthetic qualities, the popularity of Rolex men's watches is due to the marketing genius of Hans Wilsdorf. Indeed, in retrospect, they seem to have been involved in all the right moves! From Mercedes Gleitz's swim across the English Channel to Sir Edmund Hillary's summit of Everest, to speed records and the conquest of both poles, they only lack space to complete the picture!
But what does "Rolex" actually mean? While some say it's a combination of letters that makes it easy to pronounce in any language, others say it's a contraction of "Horlogerie-Exquise"... We told you that absolutely everything at Rolex is a legend!
The difference embodied by Audemars Piguet men's watches
Appearing at the pinnacle later than the two previous houses, Audemars Piguet is perhaps the one that has sparked the most passions in recent years. Yet, it all began modestly in 1875 when Jean-Louis Audemars, the youngest descendant of this family of watchmakers from Le Brassus, set up his workshop at his parents' home with the ambition of manufacturing very high-quality complicated watches. In a short time, orders became regular. So much so that he had to enlist several watchmakers from his family and entourage, including Edouard-Auguste Piguet, whom he knew both from school and the choir. Together, they decided not only to found a company in 1881, but above all to no longer manufacture calibers for competing brands. The company specialized in chiming watches and was so successful that they opened a branch in Geneva in 1885. Audemars Piguet thus continued its development, from success to success, making Audemars Piguet men's watches a benchmark... But despite this, this house was still missing something for it to become essential: an icon.
That was without counting on the flash of genius of designer Gérald Genta. On the night of April 10, 1970, he not only designed an icon, but also laid the foundations of an entire style. Indeed, he created the famous Royal Oak and at the same time inaugurated "sport-chic." In the same theme, discover our sports watch straps that will bring elegance to your sports outfits. Inspired by the childhood memory of a diver, the Royal Oak is distinguished in particular by its octagonal bezel adorned with eight visible screws, a guilloché dial with a tapestry motif, and an integrated, tumbled bracelet. This last element alone became the distinctive sign of the famous "sport-chic" style. When it was launched at the Basel fair in 1972, this Audemars Piguet men's watch was nothing less than the most expensive steel watch on the market. Although the reception was mixed, it was enough for Gianni Agnelli, heir to the FIAT empire and sometimes nicknamed the last king of Italy, to wear it in public for orders to pour in. Available in a multitude of models, all adorned with the most beautiful complications, the Royal Oak is much more than a bestseller: it embodies the renewal of watch design. Until the 1990s, one could have possibly criticized the Royal Oak for its lack of versatility: indeed, although a signature, the integrated bracelet prevents any variation of the bracelet... But that was without counting the Royal Oak Offshore and Royal Oak Concept series: they allowed this Audemars Piguet watch for men to be adorned first with rubber and finally with leather. And it is not exotic leather like the crocodile watch strap for men that will say the opposite!
Cyril LEROY
Watchmaking editor at Maison Fèvre
Enlightened amateur & passionate collector
