How to restore an old watch?

There is no watch enthusiast who does not dream of finding by chance a watch forgotten in an attic or other drawer… However, it is a safe bet that this providential discovery has suffered the ravages of time. Before anything else, it will be necessary to carefully consider your rehabilitation project so that the awakening of this mysterious sleeper resembles that of Sleeping Beauty more than that of Frankenstein’s creature… Thus, against all expectations, the question “ How to restore an old watch? ” does not only call for a technical answer!

Restoring an old watch, a unique adventure

Before even thinking about restoring an old watch, it is important to understand the difference between repair and restoration:

• Repair aims to restore an object to its original functioning. It generally consists of replacing or repairing defective components;

• on the other hand, the restoration is the process of returning an object to its original state. This involves restoring the original appearance of the object, without changing its main functionality.

But behind these relatively simple definitions lie realities that are much more complex than they seem!

While it's perfectly normal to want this watch to work properly again, be aware, for example, that replacing defective parts in a collector's watch with contemporary ones would first expose your precious find to a significant depreciation in its value. And as obvious as it may seem, some companies have a credo of putting mechanical performance before all other considerations. Thus, stories where Rolex's after-sales service (yes, you read that right) has not respected this rule, sometimes considerably dividing the value of collector's watches, are scattered across the web...

Then, when you choose to restore an old watch, while it is important to know where to start, it is essential to ask yourself where you should stop. I am not talking about the expenses that will mark the process, but about the restoration itself. Indeed, ask yourself what makes this vintage watch charming and keep in mind that removing traces and other marks means erasing part of its history. In fact, once it has been completely refurbished, will this vintage watch still arouse the same emotion in you?

Finally, unless you have the specific skills required, restoring an old watch is not easy and requires multidisciplinary skills... In short, it requires the assistance of a qualified professional.

Can you restore the dial of an old watch?

Indeed, once your specifications have been established, you will need to go in search of a watchmaker-restorer to implement them. But before rushing to the internet and social networks, take the time to ask around if anyone has a professional to recommend. And even if the answer is negative, simply go and meet the watchmaker closest to you to start a discussion and present your project. Their expertise will be valuable in more than one way for the rest of the events. Indeed, they will allow you to at least adjust your specifications, possibly estimate all or part of the work, or indicate specialists who can take care of the most delicate operations, such as the restoration of the dial of your old watch .

It is important to understand that the success of your restoration, or at least the satisfaction you will experience from it, depends on your ability to make your expectations understood and to understand their limitations. Indeed, depending on the age of your watch, the brand or the model, it may not only be the case that certain parts are almost impossible to find, but also that the perfect refurbishment of certain parts is at the very least unachievable. This may lead to a possible reconsideration of your initial plan.

Let's take the case that generally arouses the most expectations, namely the restoration of the dial of an old watch . Considering the place that the latter occupies in a watch, it is customary to say that the dial is the face of a watch. It is therefore not surprising that we want our watch, whether for men or women, to look good with an impeccable dial.

Yes, but here's the thing: dial makers aren't legion! You can contact the Cadraniers de Génève, for example, but unless you have a luxury watch to restore, there's a good chance that the cost of the operation will exceed the market value of your collector's watch...

There are, of course, other providers you can turn to. However, the feedback I received from my own watchmaker was that the results were too unpredictable...

So what should you do? It all depends as much on the extent of the damage as on the dial itself. Some varnished dials prevent any work, while others can be cleaned with a lemon juice solution and a watchmaker's delicacy.

In fact, more than the restoration of the dial of an old watch, we will then speak of its rehabilitation. If this can possibly involve a simple cleaning operation, it can also consist of only intervening on certain aspects, such as for example tritium. Formerly responsible for the luminescence of the indexes and hands of timepieces in the dark, it is possible that this material has aged unevenly, or inelegantly. Also, relighting can prove to be an interesting option to give a boost to a faded dial without being too heavy or too expensive. To fully understand what this technique consists of, I invite you to consult the Lumeville page.

Vintage leather watch strap: the finishing touch!

After you've successfully completed your project, it's obvious that you'll want to proudly wear it on your wrist. To do this, you'll go in search of a new watch strap, like the double-wrap smooth leather watch strap for women . Indeed, if your find still had its original leather watch strap, it's more than likely that it's at worst unusable, at best inappropriate. A men's leather watch strap will likely have dried out to the point of being brittle, while a steel bracelet like the Fixo Flex would only be truly comfortable to wear once it's completely shaved your forearm...

Also, for the sake of consistency, why not go for a vintage leather watch strap? With this in mind, you have two choices: look for a vintage watch strap from the period to your taste on flea market stalls and other classified ad sites, or place your trust in the know-how of recognized manufacturers, like Maison Fèvre. Indeed, the expertise acquired since 1942 by the manufacturer has allowed it to update the vintage leather watch strap without distorting it. Thus, you will have to choose between Vintage Retro with its contrasting stitching, Nubuck with its many color variations and tone-on-tone stitching or with Epuré or even Goat Suede, whose apparent simplicity will highlight even more the sophisticated lines and sometimes busy dials of vintage watches.

But, as we have already mentioned, choosing a watch strap for women or men is above all an opportunity to inject a bit of your personality into it. In this sense, nothing obliges you to opt for a vintage leather watch strap. A dive watch strap , such as the waterproof watch strap, can also give an unexpected boost to a timepiece from another era.

In any case, all Maison Fèvre watch straps are equipped with flash springs: enough to change your mind in a jiffy! Also discover the genuine crocodile leather watch strap from this French artisan, to enhance a vintage or collector's watch.

Servicing an automatic watch, or how to avoid having to start from scratch

After all that effort, research, and waiting, it's obvious that you'll want to take the greatest care of your precious timepiece. Of course, you'll want to protect it from scratches and, above all, from water, because you know that this is the greatest enemy your watch will face. Unsurprisingly, if moisture penetrates the heart of the case, rust will form and irreversibly damage its movement. And even if you protect your watch from water, like any mechanical device, it will need regular maintenance to ensure its proper functioning.

Let's take the example of an automatic watch: over time, the oils will gradually dry out, so much so that the smooth running of the movement will eventually be impaired. Worse still, in the absence of optimal lubrication, the friction generated by the oscillating weight, among other things, but also by all the other pivoting parts, will produce abrasive dust which, in the long run, is likely to irreparably damage the movement of your timepiece...! The only way to protect yourself from this is to ensure regular servicing of your automatic watch.

This operation simply consists of completely dismantling the automatic watch in order to clean it, then reassemble it, taking care to lubricate it properly. Respecting the service periods for an automatic watch, as well as for any other mechanical watch, helps to ensure its proper functioning and to make it last over time.

Despite everything, two schools of thought oppose each other: while some recommend taking their automatic watch for servicing on average every 5 years, others wait until they notice a change in its performance before thinking about it... And since everything is just an eternal restart, you will just have to repeat the same process as before in order to find the person (or person!) who will take care of servicing your automatic watch !

Cyril LEROY
Watchmaking editor at Maison Fèvre
Enlightened amateur & passionate collector