What is the origin of cordovan leather?

It is well established that the name of certain brands alone embodies values ​​of prestige or exclusivity. This is the case for Ferrari, Hermès or even Rolex to name but a few. But in some cases, the raw material is sufficient in itself. While gold is of course the most representative example, it is a safe bet that you will be sensitive to the origin of cordovan leather.

The origin of cordovan leather: more than a thousand years watching over you

The origin of cordovan leather dates back to the beginning of the 8th century, when the Moors of Morocco arrived in Spain, and more precisely in the city of Cordoba. From the meeting between native and immigrant artisans, all heirs of ancestral practices, was born cordovan : the art of gilded leather .

From an etymological point of view, the term "cordovan" therefore comes from "cordobán", which simply means "from Cordoba". Initially, it was a vegetable-tanned goat leather, intended for wall decorations, chests or even for adorning armor.

But the origin of cordovan leather does not stop there!

It was only from the 19th century that the word "cordovan" was used to refer to horse leather. It appears that German tanners, who had become masters of this technique, then called it "Spiegelware," meaning "mirror goods," thus referring both to the shiny appearance of this leather once polished, but also to the art of original gilding .

It was also at this time that German and Dutch tanners moved to the United States, where they perfected their process to make this leather more supple and therefore suitable for making shoes. And this is only a fitting return of things, because the term "shoemaker" comes directly from the name that designated the craftsmen who worked Cordovan to make shoes: the "cordouaniers".

It was in Uncle Sam's country that Cordovan leather received its final letters of nobility, under the leadership of the legendary Horween tannery in particular. Did you know that it supplied the famous bootmaker Alden, particularly known for its 405 model? You're certainly familiar with it; it's none other than the one worn by Indiana Jones...

The origin of cordovan leather is therefore multiple and invites both travel and adventure...!

The cordovan watch strap, the purists' choice

It is said that it was Harrison Ford himself who chose the Alden 405 for this character, remembering the quality of those he wore when he was a carpenter on film sets. Because beyond its unique aesthetic, this leather has equally special technical qualities, all suitable for making Cordovan watch straps.

Because indeed, in addition to its natural shine, it is undoubtedly the most durable of all leathers. The pore density is so high that they cannot be distinguished with the naked eye. This specificity combined with the oils with which it is gradually nourished during the long tanning operations make shell cordovan leather naturally water-repellent, even slightly stretchy, thus guaranteeing easy use and comfort in all circumstances. But these arguments in favor of cordovan watch straps are not the most decisive. What really makes the difference between cordovan and any other leather is its tolerance for wrinkles. Where other leathers will micro-crack and eventually tear, shell cordovan simply makes little waves. This means that shoes can last a lifetime, and cordovan watch straps do not become fragile against the buckle during the daily adjustment of the watch to your wrist. Replace your vintage watch strap, with ease.

Let's recognize, however, that this leather has its flaws, I mean that waterproofness does not go hand in hand with breathability, and that its mechanical qualities obviously make it less flexible than others. We can also say that it will take its time to take its final shape to fit the curves of your wrist.

Cordovan leather care: between legend and reality

One might have feared that such a product would be particularly difficult to maintain. Rest assured: this is not the case! Since it belongs to the oiled leather family, it requires even less maintenance than classic leather. In fact, maintaining cordovan leather essentially consists of brushing it. At least, this is the case for shoes. As for men's cordovan watch straps, it is recommended to polish them with a microfiber cloth reserved for this purpose, or any soft, dry cloth, the main thing being, of course, to avoid any abrasive cleaners and other chemical products.

Some may have already heard that cordovan leather is maintained with... a deer bone. It is said that deer bones contain the ideal amount of oil to avoid damaging the leather while also avoiding over-nourishing it. Aside from the relative difficulty of obtaining such an artifact, I admit to having a little trouble picturing the scene without finding it, shall we say... strange.

Except for admirers of the Temple of Doom, it is therefore recommended to use a suitable cream as soon as the polishes begin to lose their effectiveness. While the Saphir® brand seems to be the consensus, others provide equally good results. The underlying idea is to preserve the leather's oils to prevent it from drying out and losing its suppleness.

Let's take this opportunity to point out that patina lovers will have to be patient. While the patina is very attractive, shell cordovan leather has a reputation for barely changing. However, with time and proper care, I guarantee they won't be disappointed...!

Finally, maintaining cordovan leather would be pointless if it wasn't stored properly. Here again, common sense is key: a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and heat.

Despite all your precautions, it's possible that after a downpour without your umbrella, white spots may appear on the leather. Don't panic! A vigorous polish to slightly warm the leather will disappear.

Changing your cordovan watch strap is child's play

Now that you're convinced you need to give your timepiece a shell cordovan leather strap, it's time to equip it. To do this, sit comfortably in front of a flat, stable surface, such as a table or desk. Discover the Maison Fèvre Cordovan watch strap. If you haven't opted for flash pumps, equip yourself with the small tool that Maison Fèvre® will have included with your order and a microfiber cloth or, once again, any other soft cloth. You're now ready to change your cordovan watch strap:

• Lay your timepiece on the cloth, glass side down.
• Squeeze the horns between your thumb and index finger while placing your middle finger under slight pressure from underneath.
• Insert the pump pusher between the horn and the bracelet, in the groove of the bar, in order to hook it inwards.
• Given the pressure exerted by your middle finger, the pump lifts towards you as soon as it is released.
• All you have to do is remove half of the bracelet and retrieve the bar to insert it into your new bracelet.
• To put the bar back in place, insert it into the hole in the horn in front of you, compress the pump with your thumbnail on one side and your index finger resting on the horn on the other, and lower it, once again with the help of your middle finger, to insert it between the second horn.
• Make sure the pump is properly seated in the horn hole.
• Of course, repeat the operation on the other side of the watch.

Congratulations! You've successfully changed your cordovan watch strap!

Now that you've taken the plunge, you'll no longer hesitate to adapt your strap to suit the occasion or your outfit. So, you'll no longer have any excuses for not matching your strap with your belt or having a strap whose color doesn't match that of your shoes... But beyond these dandyish considerations, keep in mind that changing your cordovan watch strap allows you to breathe a little bit of yourself into it.

Cyril LEROY
Watchmaking editor at Maison Fèvre
Enlightened amateur & passionate collector